Amigurumi Doll in Green Dress Free Pattern

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One of the amigurumi free crochet patterns we will share today is amigurumi doll…

Below you will find some information about this pattern. We are sure that you will do it in the best way.

Abbreviations

magic ring
ch (chain)
st (stitch)
sc (single crochet)
hdc (half double crochet)
dc (double crochet)
inc (increase)
dec (decrease)
FLO (front loop only)
sl st (slip stitch)
Size: 27 cm [without her hat] when made with the indicated yarn
Difficulty: Intermediate

Materials

• Sock weight yarn in dark green, light green, white, red, light peach, brown
• Black yarn or embroidery thread
• 2.5mm crochet hook
• A pair of 8mm black safety eyes
• One 6mm red round button
• Polyester fiberfill for stuffing
• Yarn needle
• Sewing needle
• Sewing thread in red
• Scissors
• Stitch markers
• Pearl headed pins

Special Notes:

Color Change: This pattern requires color changes to make stripes. For a seamless color change, follow these steps: While working on the last stitch of the round, just before you make the color change, make a single crochet stitch as usual by inserting hook in the stitch and pull up a loop. Now instead of pulling the same yarn through the two remaining loops on your hook, complete the stitch by pulling the new color through the loops. In the first stitch of the next round, instead of making a single crochet stitch, slip stitch with the new color. Now make single crochet stitches in each of the remaining stitches of the round. Work on the next round as usual.

AMIGURUMI DOLL CROCHET FREE PATTERN

Boot & Leg [make 2]

Start with dark green yarn.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring. [6]
Rnd 2-3: sc around. [6]
Rnd 4: inc X 6. [12]
Rnd 5: sc around. [12]
Rnd 6: (inc, sc 2) X 4. [16]
Rnd 7: sc around. [16]
Rnd 8: (dec, sc 2) X 4. [12]
Rnd 9-10: sc around. [12]
ch 1, turn. Next, we will work on the heel.

Heel

Row 1-3: sc 7, ch 1, turn. [7]
Row 4: sc 7. Mark the last stitch worked. [7]
From here on, we go back to working in the round.
Rnd 11: Working along the row end, sc 4; sc 5 on the front of the shoe, sc 4 along the other row end [13]
Rnd 12: Starting from the marked st, sc in all 13 st. [13]
Rnd 13: sc around. [13]
Rnd 14: dec, sc 11. [12]

Join red yarn.
Rnd 15: sc around. [12]
Sew the gap at the heel closed.
Rnd 16-29: sc around. [12]
Stuff as you go.
Rnd 30: (dec, sc 4) X 2. [10]
Rnd 31-45: sc around. [10]
Starting from the last stitch worked, count counterclockwise and mark the 5th stitch.
Fasten off. Stuff leg lightly, leaving the last 4-5 rounds unstuffed.
Make the second leg and stuff but do not fasten off. We will continue working on this leg and join it with the other leg in the next round.

Body

Rnd 1: ch 4; starting from the marked st of the first leg sc 10, sc in the next 4 ch, sc in all 10 st of the second leg. [24 st + 4 ch]
Rnd 2: sc in the loops of the next 4 ch sc in the remaining 24 st. [28]
Rnd 3-5: sc around. [28]
Join dark green yarn.
Rnd 6-7: sc around. [28]
Join light green yarn.
Rnd 8: sc around. [28]
Rnd 9: (sc 5, dec) X 4. [24]
Switch to dark green yarn.Rnd 10-11: sc around. [24]
Switch to light green yarn.
Rnd 12-13: sc around. [24]
Switch to dark green yarn, fasten off light green yarn.
Rnd 14: sc around. [24]
Rnd 15: (sc 4, dec) X 4. [20]
Rnd 16: (sc 3, dec) X 4. [16]
Stuff the body. While stuffing, bend the legs forward at the point where the legs and the body meet so no stuffing passes through the top portion of the legs. This is to ensure that the upper legs remain floppy, which will make it possible for the doll to sit.Join light peach yarn, fasten off dark green yarn.
Rnd 17: (sc 2, dec) X 4. [12]
Rnd 18: (sc, dec) X 4. [8]
Rnd 19-25: sc around. [8]
Stuff the neck firmly. It is very important to stuff the neck as firmly as possible at this point so it can support the weight of the head.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Using your yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight, closing off the neck. Weave in the yarn end.

Boot Cuff [make 2]

With white yarn, ch 17.
Row 1: Starting from the 4th ch from the hook, dc in all 14 ch. [14]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Wrap the cuff around Rnd 15 of the leg and sew the row ends together. Secure to the leg with a few tacks.

Arm [make 2]

Start with light peach yarn.
Rnd 1: 7 sc in a magic ring. [7]
Rnd 2-4: sc around. [7]
Join light green yarn; fasten off light peach yarn.
Rnd 5-22: sc around. [7]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Do not stuff the arms. Press the top of the arm flat and sew it closed.
Pin arms on Rnd 15 of the body and sew them in place.

Skirt

Ch 28 with light green yarn. sl st in the first ch to make a ring. [Note: Leave a long tail at the beginning of the chain to use for sewing the skirt onto the body later.]
Rnd 1: ch 1, hdc around. [28]
Work in continuous spirals from the next round onwards.
Rnd 2: sc inc X 28. [56]
Rnd 3: (sc 6, inc) X 8. [64]
Rnd 4-8: sc around. [64]
Rnd 9: (sc 6, dec) X 8. [56]
Rnd 10: (sl st in the next st, ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch from the hook, sc in the next st) X 28.
Fasten off. Weave in the yarn ends.
Slip the skirt from the top of the body and position it around Rnd 6. Hold it in place with pearl headed pins and sew in place.

Head

Work with light peach yarn.
Rnd 1: 8 sc in a magic ring. [8]
Rnd 2: inc X 8. [16]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) X 8. [24]
Rnd 4: (sc 2, inc) X 8. [32]
Rnd 5: (sc 3, inc) X 8. [40]
Rnd 6: (sc 4, inc) X 8. [48]
Rnd 7-17: sc around. [48]
Rnd 18: (sc 4, dec) X 8. [40]
Rnd 19: (sc 3, dec) X 8. [32]
Rnd 20: (sc 2, dec) X 8. [24]
Insert 8mm eyes between Rnd 13 & 14, 7 stitches apart.
Rnd 21: dec X 12. [12]
Stuff head, leaving some space in the center for the neck that will be inserted later.
Rnd 22: (sc 4, dec) X 2. [10]
Fasten off. Weave in the yarn end.
Shape face: Thread a yarn needle with light peach yarn. Insert needle from the opening at the base of the head, bring it out from Point A next to the eye. Push the needle back in from Point B and out from Point C close to the next eye. Push it in from Point D, bringing it out from Point A again.
Gently squish the eyes together with your fingers and carefully pull the yarn to bring the eyes closer. While holding this shape, push the needle back in from Point B and out from Point C. Push it in from Point D, and bring it out from the opening at the base of the head. Gently pull both the yarn ends and tie them together to hold the shape. Clip off excess yarn and push the yarn ends inside the head.
Embroider eye details: With white yarn, sew a crescent shape around the outer edge of the eyes.With black yarn or embroidery thread, sew eyelashes.

Wig

Work with brown yarn.
Rnd 1-15: Follow instructions for Head.
Fasten off leaving a very long tail. We will use this tail to embroider bangs on the forehead.

Hair

Slip the wig on the head; make sure the yarn tail is positioned above the left eye.
Using pearl-head pins, mark the area where bangs on the forehead will be processed. Weave the yarn tail around these pins to create a zigzag outline for the bangs that will cover the entire right side of the forehead. Now we will start embroidering hair, one cluster at a time.
With your yarn needle, make a stitch on the hairpiece at the end of the zigzag outline. Do not take out the pins yet; we will need them to hold the outline. Next, make another stitch on the pointed end of the outline; make sure the needle goes beneath the yarn that serves as your outline and through one stitch on the head. Make another stitch at exactly the same spot, using the same technique, to hold the pointed end of the outline in place. Sew your next stitch on the hairpiece. Continue embroidering slanted lines, starting at the pointed end of the zigzag and ending at the edge of the hairpiece until the outline for the first bang is covered.
Continue until you cover the entire right side of the forehead. Similarly, create an outline with pearl headed pins on the left side of the forehead and embroider the bangs. Secure the wig with a few tacks at the back of the head.

Braid [make 2]

Cut eight 15-inch long stands of brown yarn, fold them in half. Take another strand of brown yarn, equal in length to the other stands, wrap it around the fold line and use it to tie the other strands together. Divide the strands into three equal sections and braid them. Tie off the end and clip off excess yarn. Thread a yarn needle with brown yarn and sew the braids on the head.
Join head to body
Note: This head-body joining technique ensures that the head of your amigurumi is movable. Thread a yarn needle with brown yarn and insert the needle from the top of the head and out from the neck opening. Now insert your needle through the base of the neck [between Rnd 18 & 19 of the body], back through the neck opening on the head, bringing it out again from the top of the head. Slide the head down the two strands of yarn until it sits perfectly on the neck. Knot the yarn ends together a few times to secure. Clip off excess yarn and carefully push remaining yarn back into the head.

Capelet

Ch 31 with white yarn.
Row 1: Starting from the 6th ch from the hook, sc 6, 3 sc in the next ch, sc 12, 3 sc in the next ch, sc 6, ch 1, turn. [30]
Join light green yarn.
Row 2: sc 6, inc, sc, inc, sc 12, inc, sc, inc, sc 6, ch 1, turn. [34]
Switch to white yarn, fasten off light green yarn.
Row 3: sc across, turn. [34]
Row 4: ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch from the hook, sc in the next st, (sl st in the next st, ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch from the hook, sc in the next st) X 16.
Fasten off. Weave in the yarn ends.
Sew a 6mm red button on Row 1 of the capelet. Wrap it around the shoulders and slip the button through the 5-ch button-hole.

Hat

Start with white yarn.
Ribbed band
Row 1: Ch 4. Starting from the second ch from the hook, sc 3, ch 1, turn. [3]
Row 2-46: FLO sc 3, ch 1, turn. [3]
Row 47: FLO sc 3, ch 1. [3]
Now we will work along the row end to even out the edges.
Row 48: sc along the row end, making 1 sc per row. [46]
Next, we will join the band and work in continuous spirals.
Join light green yarn.
Rnd 1: sc in the first sc to join. Continue working sc in the remaining 45 st. [46]
Rnd 2: sc around. [46]
Switch to white yarn.
Rnd 3: (sc 21, dec) X 2. [44]
Rnd 4: (sc 20, dec) X 2. [42]
Switch to light green yarn.
Rnd 5: (sc 5, dec) X 6. [36]
Rnd 6: sc around. [36]
Switch to white yarn.
Rnd 7: (sc 4, dec) X 6. [30]
Rnd 8: (sc 3, dec) X 6. [24]
Switch to light green yarn.
Rnd 9: (sc, dec) X 8. [16]
Rnd 10: sc around. [16]
Switch to white yarn.
Rnd 11-12: sc around. [16]
Switch to light green yarn.
Rnd 13-14: sc around. [16]
Switch to white yarn.
Rnd 15: (sc 6, dec) X 2. [14]
Rnd 16: sc around. [14]
Switch to light green yarn.
Rnd 17-18: sc around. [14]
Switch to white yarn.
Rnd 19-20: sc around. [14]
Switch to light green yarn.
Rnd 21: (sc 5, dec) X 2. [12]
Rnd 22: sc around. [12]
Switch to white yarn.
Rnd 23-24: sc around. [12]
Switch to light green yarn.
Rnd 25-26: sc around. [12]
Switch to white yarn.
Rnd 27: (sc 4, dec) X 2. [10]
Rnd 28: sc around. [10]
Switch to light green yarn.
Rnd 29-30: sc around. [10]
Switch to white yarn.
Rnd 31-32: sc around. [10]
Switch to light green yarn.
Rnd 33: (sc 3, dec) X 2. [8]
Rnd 34: sc around. [8]
Switch to white yarn.
Rnd 35-36: sc around. [8]
Switch to light green yarn.
Rnd 37-38: sc around. [8]
Switch to white yarn.
Rnd 39: (sc 2, dec) X 2. [6]
Rnd 40: sc around. [6]
Switch to light green yarn.
Rnd 41-42: sc around. [6]
Switch to white yarn.
Rnd 43-44: sc around. [6]
Switch to light green yarn; fasten off white yarn.
Rnd 45: inc X 6. [12]
Rnd 46: (sc, inc) X 6. [18]
Rnd 47: (sc 2, inc) X 6. [24]
Rnd 48-49: sc around. [24]
Rnd 50: (sc 2, dec) X 6. [18]
Rnd 51: (sc, dec) X 6. [12]
Stuff only the ‘pom pom’, not the stem of the hat.
Rnd 52: dec X 6. [6]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Using your yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight, closing off the gap. Weave in the yarn ends.
Sew together Row 1 and Row 47 of the ribbed band and weave in the yarn end. Place the hat on the head and shape the stem of the hat as per your liking.
Ready!

You can find more doll ideas down here:

What is Amigurumi?

Amigurumi means the art of making toys in Japanese. It consists of a combination of the words ami (mesh) and nuigirimi (stuffed animal). Made using crochet knitting and frequent needle technique, these toys have become quite popular in recent years. How to make amigurumi, which can be easily done by anyone who has a little bit of skill in handicraft, although it seems to be a very challenging, difficult thing. Would you like to learn how to make Amigurumi dolls that spread quickly around the world after Japan?