Amigurumi Doll Crochet Free Pattern

Hi there…

One of the free amigurumi crochet patterns we will share today is the amigurumi doll. You can learn how to crochet these doll using the free amigurumi pattern.

Below you will find some information about this pattern. Remember, you can ask for help by sharing your problem with amigurumi in our Facebook group. Have fun…

If you don’t know how to often crochet and needles, read our shares. Start your knitting according to the rate you have according to the shape you will make. Shape your toy by increasing and decreasing the point. Once you weave the shape you want to fill the inside of your toy and look at the pictures to decorate. Follow us on Facebook and Pinterest to be aware of the amigurumi crochet patterns we share everyday.

Amigurumi cats, amigurumi dolls, amigurumi dogs, amigurumi unicorns, amigurumi lambs, amigurumi dinosaurs, amigurumi foxes, amigurumi bears, amigurumi giraffes, amigurumi pigs, amigurumi birds, amigurumi penguins, amigurumi panda, amigurumi llama, amigurumi bunny, amigurumi clowns, amigurumi elephants, amigurumi hippos, amigurumi monkeys will not be difficult for you…


• Yarn of two colors, for example red and white. I AM used Pekhorka Children’s hit 163m / 50 g, voluminous acrylic
• white yarn about 35 g
• red yarn about 25-30g
• hook number 2.5 (I have Prum)
• a pair of buttons
• filler (holofiber)
The size of the toy is about 17 cm while sitting.
All details fill tightly. Some (body, legs, pens) – as you knit!


MR – amigurumi ring
ch – air loop
sc – single crochet
inc – increase
dec – decrease


Row 1: 6 sc in amigurumi ring (6)
Row 2: incх6 (12)
Row 3: (1 sc, inc) x6 (18)
Row 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
Row 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)
Row 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36)
Row 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42)
Row 8: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48)
Row 9: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54)

Row 10: (8 sc, inc) x6 (60)
Rows 11-19: 60 sc
Row 20: (8 sc, dec) x6 (54)
Row 21: (7 sc, dec) x6 (48)
Row 22: (6 sc, dec) x6 (42)
Row 23: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36)
Row 24: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30)
If you are using safety eyes, place them between 18 and 19 rows at a distance of 12 sc from each other.
Row 25: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24)
Row 26: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18) Leave the end of the thread for sewing.

Dots (16 pcs)

White – only one row.
Row 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Leave a small tip for sewing.

Calf With Collar – Voil

White (or other primary color)
Row 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Row 2: incх6 (12)
Row 3: (1 sc, inc) x6 (18)
Row 4a: incх18 (36) (i.e. double the number of loops)
Next, we knit as usual, grabbing the loops by both walls (half loops)
Row 5a: (1 sc, inc) x18 (54)
Rows 6a – 8a: sc (54)
We fix the thread, hide the tip.
We continue to knit the TAURUS.
We return to the third row, attach the thread and on it

Row 4: 18 sc (18)
Row 5: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
Row 6 -8: 24 sc (24)
Row 9: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)
Rows 10 – 11: 30 sc (30)
Row 12: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36)
Rows 13 -19: 36 sc (36)
Row 20: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30)
Row 21: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24)
Row 22: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18)
Row 23: (1 sc, dec) x6 (12)
Row 24: (dec) x6 (6)
Close the loops.
Don’t forget to work with filler! We fill the part tight!

Handles (2 pcs)

White (or other basic)
Row 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Row 2: incх6 (12)
Row 3: (3 sc, inc) x3 (15)
Rows 4-5: 15 sc (15)
Row 6: (dec) x3, 9 sc (12)
Rows 7-14: 12 sc (12)
Row 15: 2 offsets (i.e. knit after marker
TOTAL 2 loops), fill only the bottom of the handle, fold the top edge in half and knit 6 sc, grabbing stitches immediately with two sides.
Leave the end of the thread for sewing.
The top edge of the handles should be folded and closed so that so that the loops with decreases are on one side and in further, this part of the handle was turned towards the calf (i.e. was the inside).

Legs (2 pcs)

White (or other basic)
Dial a chain of 6 ch
Row 1: (starting from the second stitch from the hook) 4 sc, 3 sc in last loop
chains, continue to knit on the other side of the chain: 3 sc, inc (12)
Row 2: inc, 3 sc, inc х3, 3 sc, incх2 (18)
Row 3: sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 1 sc (22)
Rows 4-5: 22 sc (22)
Row 6: 6 sc, (dec) x2, 2 sc, (dec) x2, 6 sc (18)
Row 7: 5 sc, (dec) x4, 5 sc (14)
Rows 8-12: 14sc (14)
The next (13th) row knit only for the front half loops
Row 13: inc x14 (28)
Close knitting, cut thread and hide discreetly tip.


In red (or whatever you choose)
Row 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
Row 2: incх6 (12)
Row 3: (1 sc, inc) x6 (18)
Row 4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24)
Row 5: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30)
Row 6: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36)
Row 7: (5 sc, inc) x6 (42)
Row 8: (6 sc, inc) x6 (48)
Row 9: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54)
Row 10: (8 sc, inc) x6 (60)
Row 11: (9 sc, inc) x6 (66)
Row 12: (10 sc, inc) x6 (72)
Row 13: (11 sc, inc) x6 (78)
Row 14: (12 sc, inc) x6 (84)
Row 15: (13 sc, inc) x6 (90)
Row 16: (14 sc, inc) x6 (96)
Row 17: (15 sc, inc) x6 (102)
Row 18: (16 sc, inc) x6 (108)
Row 19: (17 sc, inc) x6 (114)
Row 20: (18 sc, inc) x6 (120)
Rows 21-26: 120 sc (120)
Row 27: (8 sc, dec) x12 (108)
Row 28: (7 sc, dec) x12 (96)
Row 29: (6 sc, dec) x12 (84)
Row 30: (5 sc, dec) x12 (72)
Row 31: (4 sc, dec) x12 (60)
Row 32: (3 sc, dec) x12 (48)
Change to white (or other main color)
Row 33-35: 48 sc (48)
Finish knitting, leaving the sewing tip hats.
Note that when knitting, a hat seems unnecessary bulky.
Don’t worry, this is how it should be for the beret lush. Then all the “superfluous” will gather on the rim.
We are in no hurry to sew on a beret! First we will issue specks.


** We make a beret. Place one speck in the center caps, the rest in three circles around the center. Or by your discretion. Attach to the pins first, and then carefully sew with the left end of the thread.
I didn’t leave a thread, I sewed it with a spool thread, threading the ends of the thread under the speck.
** Sew on eyes or beads. This requires a long a needle with a long and very strong thread.
The eyes are located between 18 and 19 rows, between them 12 loops (or another location at your discretion, my Amanita they are between 19 and 20 r).
Practical head completely filled with filler.
We introduce the needle through the open hole of the head into the place the location of the eye (leaving a large tip of the thread!),
we grab the bow of the part, bring the needle to the same place and we withdraw again into the hole of the head. The same is for another eye. Now we tighten both ends of the thread tightly and we tie a double knot. Filler fixes thread tension.
** We stuff the head to the end (the part must be very elastic) and sew to the calf at 3-4 rows.
When sewing on parts, I always have a little more I “knock” the part with filler.
I do this with tweezers through a small sewn up area, then I sew it up.
** We apply arms and legs to the calf. First on pins, then sew with the tip of the thread.
** Handles are located on the sides, just below the collar, they should be slightly bent in relation to the body.
** Because our toy is “sitting” – it is important that Fly agaric does not fell over.
Pay special attention to this! Attach first legs on the pins and adjust their position so that the toy sat steadily. Only after that we sew legs.
When sewing, “tap” the part with filler, as it was described above (sewing on the head)
** We put on a beret and fix it to the head, sewing on edge.
I did it with bobbin thread in 2 additions.
Approximate arrangement – 11-12 rows in front and 23-24 rows at the back.
Now that the beret sits tightly on the head, one can find the most favorable arrangement of folds.
** We embroider eyebrows and mouth. Best used for this is a thin thread.
I embroidered a 1 fold floss with a black thread.
** We straighten the collar so that the folds are neat, beautifully form folds of the beret and …